PERU OFF THE BEATEN PATH: Chasing Sun, Ceviche, and Wi-Fi Connection!

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This is my third time back in Peru, probably too many visits for someone trying to see every corner of the world. And while there are still countless places left to explore, I keep returning. Why? The deeper I travel, the more I realize: there’s always more to discover. I rarely leave a place without wanting to catch the next flight back. And Peru is absolutely one of them.

If I could be paid for simply eating my way around the world, I’d be a billionaire by now. Peru has one of the best cuisines. And I’m not the only one who thinks so. Lima is home to several high-end restaurants ranked among the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, many of which require reservations well in advance. But don’t worry, the street food and local restaurants also deliver world-class flavors. Once you taste real ceviche in Peru, you’re cursed for life. You’ll be dreaming about returning before you’ve even left.

I already checked off the very touristy spots like Machu Picchu and Cusco on a previous trip. So this time, I headed north. My Peruvian friends kept raving about how amazing the north coast is. I had no excuse not to go, except I needed reliable Wi-Fi most days to get work done. Putting my faith and trust in my Entel SIM card that I purchased locally, I hoped the 5G wouldn’t fail me. I bussed all the way from Lima to Máncora, with stops in Trujillo and Piura. I spent three weeks in total, splitting my days between each place chasing sun, sea, salt, ancient history, ceviche, and Wi-Fi signal. Honestly, it felt like an adventure most of the time. But it was truly worth it. So, here is a very off the beaten path unique itinerary for the adventurous souls.

Trujillo

Arriving early in the morning from Lima meant I needed my coffee in Trujillo badly. Like any coffee addict, I walked into the first place serving it and asked for my usual “café con leche” aka coffee with milk. I was totally shocked when they brought a full cup of milk with just a tiny shot of coffee. It took me a minute to realize that “leche con café” is a thing here. People actually drink milk with coffee, not the other way around. I looked it up and found the little shot is made with “café pasado,” a traditional Peruvian method that brews strong concentrated coffee. That’s why they mix it with milk or hot water. As someone who downs three espressos before noon, I’d say it tastes mild. Watch my live reaction in this reel!

The main reason I stopped in Trujillo, other than wanting to break the journey to Máncora in half, was the largest pre-Columbian adobe complex, Chan Chan, that I wanted to visit. I’m not a huge history buff, but after hearing about the ancient Chimú civilization that lived there even before the Incas took over, I decided to check it out. There are also ancient adobe pyramids known as “huacas” you can visit nearby. Huacas are sacred places of spiritual significance in Andean cultures and said to represent points of connection between earthly and spiritual realms. As they were used as a religious complex and believed to possess supernatural power, they offer an ideal spot to reconnect with yourself and the cultures that came before us.

During my visit to the site, I was welcomed very warmly and was truly impressed with the hospitality of the staff. They don’t receive nearly as many visitors as Machu Picchu. So, they treat each international guest like royalty. I highly recommend paying a little extra to have a guide explain the history. It’ll truly improve your visit.

Máncora

I then made my way up to Máncora and this tiny surf town sounded exactly like what I needed to escape the grey skies. A tuktuk driver greeted me at the station and before I could even say anything, picked up my bags and started driving on the dusty roads of the town to get to my hotel. First impression? Way more off-grid than I had imagined. If I had to compare it to anywhere else, it’d be Palomino in Colombia. Same laid-back vibe, smell of salty ocean breeze, surfers in the distance, shops don’t open until noon. You get the picture. Even the street dogs seem to be on vacation mode.

Ideal getaway if you’re into surfing or want to give it a try for the first time. You’ll have no problem booking a lesson on the same day. The town is dotted with surf schools, and the instructors are fun and lovely people. Check out my YouTube vlog to see how my first surfing experience went. Spoiler: it is mostly hilarious.

Sunsets are some of the most breathtaking I’ve ever seen in my life and I’m saying this as an eternal sunset chaser. Grab a beer, head down to the beach for golden hour and enjoy. Once you walk down the beach towards the center of town, locals will offer you horseback rides. You can kindly decline if that’s not your thing. Another great sunset spot is El Mirador del Faro giving you a stunning panoramic view of the town and a killer view of the Pacific Ocean. There’s also a bar right below. You can go for some pisco sour before you walk back down.

If you’re up for a little relaxing adventure, I recommend you check out the thermal baths in the countryside. You can get there by tuktuk and enjoy the tranquility of nature as you relax in the hot water.

That being said Máncora has a reputation of being a party town as many Peruvians come here for exactly that reason. I can confirm it gets loud on weekends with the whole town blasting reggaeton and salsa. If you’re hoping for a quiet escape you might be disappointed. During the week however it’s perfect for quietly getting work done with stable Wi-Fi and many comfortable coffee shops scattered on the main road and by the beachside.

For when you decide to check out the nightlife the ex Selina offers a great option. They have a large outdoor bar and pool area to hang out with well known DJs visiting on weekends promising a fun experience.

You can always choose to continue your journey up the coast to Ecuador. It’s only about 3 hours away. If you decide you want to fly out, there are three regional airports serving Máncora: Talara, Tumbes and Piura, each with daily flights to Lima. For those seeking a faster, more exclusive option, private flights to Máncora are also available. Just minutes from town the Walter Braedt Segú Aerodrome offers a private airstrip for high end travelers arriving directly from Lima or Cusco by charter plane. It’s the ultimate way to skip the long road transfers and start your surf trip up North the right way.

Piura & Catacaos

I’d add Piura into any Northern Peru itinerary, if such a thing even exists. Although it’s mostly seen as a getaway to the Northern beaches, I recommend spending a few days here mostly to check out Catacaos and to feel like you’re the only tourist in the world.

Piura truly made me feel like I was living the off the beaten path dream, with people staring at me wide-eyed like they had never seen a gringa before and complimenting my looks, definitely a huge ego boost. To be truly transparent, I mainly stayed there because of the airport, but I ended up enjoying the experience very much.

As a digital nomad who’s been seen in the wild running with my laptop in hand in search of Wi-Fi more than once, I must admit that Piura isn’t a nomad’s dream spot. No cafés, and busy roads can be stressful. The best hack in these situations is finding the nearest 5 star resort and turning their restaurant into your daily workspace. You don’t need to sacrifice your sense of adventure to stay productive!

Catacaos was already on my list after I heard about the witches and artisans who live in this town. Only a short 15-minute ride away, it truly offers a unique atmosphere, a sharp contrast to the chaos of Piura. Similar to the mystic vibes of Cusco, the town has a relaxing energy and a perfect spot to shop for souvenirs and handmade gifts to bring back home to friends and family. You can ask the shop owner if they know anyone doing energy cleaning and they’ll kindly refer you to the right person. Get ready for a truly immersive experience, native music, incenses, local healing drinks. Be open to receive and speak to the locals. I’m sure you’ll feel the magic!

If you’re based in Piura, why not check out the local bars and get a taste of the nightlife? Kanta Bar is a great spot for some karaoke fun. It has a rooftop area, great cocktails, and a gorgeous indoor space with artsy paintings covering the walls. Check it out while you are in town you won’t regret it.

Curious about more off the beaten path destinations? Want to adventure further but don’t want to go solo? Looking for better ways to manage remote work on the go? Reach out and let’s map out your next journey together.