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Although I am originally Turkish (born and raised in Istanbul), I moved to Canada with my family while I was in high school, before I hit the legal drinking age. Thus, my opinion on fun stuff to do in Turkey was extremely limited until I got stuck in the country during the covid pandemic. After my travels in South America, I flew to Istanbul for a short visit to the relatives, without expecting to go straight into a lockdown, that would last a year. As you can expect, I felt anxious, nervous and very stressed about flights to Canada getting constantly cancelled but eventually accepted my fate and decided to enjoy the uncertainty of life and my time in Istanbul.
On the plus side of things, my Turkish improved significantly (initially I was chatting to guys on Tinder only in English), I rediscovered Istanbul as an adult for the first time and found out that it can be one of the most chaotic and fun places in the world, and realized that Turkish people are very liberal and open-minded (more than in the Western world at times). I was frequenting Cihangir quite often and summer was approaching when I heard a few of my friends mention a place called Kabak.
Views.
They explained to me that it was a hidden gem in the South coast of Turkey, mostly visited by hippies, artists and anyone who wants to chill out without being disturbed by the annoying holidaymaker crowds in some of the more expensive resort towns. By then more and more countries were starting to lift their pandemic restrictions, and international travel was slowly becoming possible again. And, as you can probably guess how my mind operates by now, I started drafting a road trip starting from Turkey, to Greece through the Balkans ending in Western Europe. My first stop would be Kabak.
Lounging all day with a dog by my side.
When I say Kabak is a hidden gem, I literally mean it. After landing in Dalaman aiport, I took a bus to Fethiye, to catch yet another mini-bus headed to this hippy village. The two people at the stop informed me that the mini-bus rarely runs on schedule and the next one would probably be in a couple hours. They offered me a beer they took out of their cooler and we started chatting. They were visiting the valley every summer and spending several weeks to several months depending on if they had to go back to Istanbul for work or for errands. I had a few campsite names written down on my phone as per my friends’ recommendations and asked them if they knew any of them. It turned out we were headed to the same campsite.
Embracing the chill lifestyle.
The road into the Kabak valley is very steep and difficult to navigate if you are the driver. I previously crossed mountain passes in the Himalayas and many sketchy places around the world and this one is not any better. If you want to check out this magical valley like I did, put your life and faith into the driver’s hands and avoid driving your own car down the valley – unless you are very experienced and don’t mind getting your car dirty and scratched.
A friend found passed out in his tent – a daily event after a few mojitos.
We arrived to the final stop, bags thrown out the vehicle, and hiked to the campsite. Don’t get me wrong, I love nature, connecting to the earth beneath our feet and detoxing once in a while but I also do love a five-star resort. The accommodation in Kabak could be considered in between both. There are tents set up nearby the bungalows. With the bungalow option, you get your own charging station and private bathroom, for about the same price. A delicious breakfast, lunch and dinner buffet is included whether you are sleeping in a tent or in a bungalow. The valley is dotted by different campsites from top to the bottom. The upper ones get a gorgeous view of the sea and most places offer daily yoga and meditation classes.
Sun, drinks and friends.
We were welcomed by the owner and people rocking dreadlocks that seemed to be living there full time. They offered us a welcome shot, and informed us about the meal times. After the check in, we headed straight to the beach to catch the sunset.
Unforgettable sunsets at the cave.
I had no idea I would make lifelong friends, have the deepest conversations and the most fun while learning to be fully present in the now, all in Kabak. After the first few days, I pretty much knew everyone in the valley and it felt like a close-knit community. I felt like a child again, with zero responsibilities, disconnected from my cell-phone mostly, just enjoying the here and now with my friends.
Kabak crew.
The beach is isolated enough that you will know everyone at any given hour. Sunsets are gorgeous. There is a waterfall you can hike up to if you really want to get active, which will take about half a day and there is a beautiful cave a short swim away from the beach. Kabak is not a place to do but to be and to appreciate the natural beauty around. The sea is crystal clear, nature is untouched, and as soon as you step into the valley magic takes over reality. Nobody talks about work, or responsibilities, or money, unless it is for deciding who will get the next round of beers. Everyone is there for the same reason, to disconnect and to have a good time.
Mojito for breakfast? or lunch?
And I guess that explains why it can be very easy to spend a full summer season there, without worrying about life. After about two weeks of doing absolutely nothing, myself and many others decided to volunteer to help out with chores such as doing the dishes for the new guests at the campsite, as we started to feel the need to be productive. At the end of the month, we had formed an inner circle of Kabak, friends with the owners, welcoming new guests, excited for them to experience what we did.
In my natural habitat.
Words are not enough to describe the magnitude of my feelings for my experience, so I will just say that it was life changing. I learned that the depth of new connections is not measured by time spent together, but by mutual feelings felt. Sometimes you learn more by doing less. Help while and when you can and it will be returned back to you. Beauty is all around us if you have the eye to see it. Keep an open mind always, you never know where in the world you will find paradise.
Paradise on earth.
I am writing this as I am on my way to Poland to visit an ex-Kabak-er, who in fact helped me pack my bags and drove me out of the valley, as he was scared I would never leave and turn into a fire-spinning hippie. All joking aside, all the amazing friends I met, you know who you are, hope the wildness and magic in your heart never disappears.
If you are interested in other travel stories, check out my adventures and tips from Colombia!
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